what causes car electrical problems that makes the headlights and dash lights to flicker off and on

February xi, 2013 at eight:43 am #499435

You lot came to the right place.

I used to work at autozone then delight permit me to chime in on the issue at hand. Firstly, these people know nothing about cars. They can practice basic battery, starter, and alternator testing and that's information technology.

With that said, at that place is mostly likely a couple of possibilities here to consider, but start as with any electric problem it's important to cut through the b.s. and speculation and get right into the wiring diagram:
[i]
wiring diagram:[/i]

One strategy when dealing with multiple affected devices on a circuit is to notice commonalities that are shared among all devices. In this case, you lot have a common power feed; fused battery voltage which hits a splice indicate and feeds all your interior lighting. And then.. at this bespeak we accept already identified a couple of points of interest: the battery and the splice point.

Just based on these items, I will recommend the following examination that will address the two aforementioned points of interest:

Test #1
Perform a 'voltage drop' test on both bombardment terminals to check for unwanted resistance. The value you obtain should be less than .10 volts (or 100 mV) between the post and the terminal.

Test #2
Since the splice point in the wiring diagram is unnamed or unlabeled, it will exist hard to find and test the splice point.. merely all is not lost. Using the clues given and your power to trace and follow wires, you should be able to find the white wire with blue tracer coming out of your fuse box. Information technology volition most likely feed through a 'pass through' in the bulkhead (firewall) and perhaps nether the nuance. In my opinion, this is most likely where the wire volition splice into three white wires with bluish tracer that will feed your interior lighting. This splice might appear every bit a type of connector or wiring harness. Nonetheless, it is a point of interest that must be tested because it can influence the unabridged excursion. Now, the exam I recommend on this splice is a tried and truthful method called the "wiggle test." (Information technology is actually a valid test by GM and others) As the proper name implies, merely wiggle the splice pack and see if your lights flicker. If they flicker, you have about probable found the problem and tin can perform a wire repair of your chosing; whether it be solder & compress wrap or compression splices.

Side notes:

Since the afflicted devices do not share a common basis, I do not believe that the problem you are experiencing is necessarily a footing-side upshot. I believe that this is well-nigh likely a power issue.

Just for fun, get a meter up in your lights and come across what kind of voltage readings you are actually getting.

This may not exist quite as easy, and it may mess up your meter if you are not careful, see if you lot can get an amperage reading for the entire circuit. (this could be fabricated from anywhere in the excursion; the fuse box or a low-cal for case.)

An uncommon phenomenon that no one ever tests for is a condition called "A/C Ripple." Using your DVOM, cheque for A/C voltage from the alternator. The maximum allowed A/C current from the alternator should be less than .1 volts (or 100 mV.)

Here are some applicable videos that volition help ye' on your endeavors:

http://www.youtube.com/sentry?v=zb7WHaL_dz8&playnext=1&list=PL0242A27608371154&feature=results_video

Feb 11, 2013 at 1:xx pm #499442

+ane

Great advice on the ac examination too.

February 19, 2013 at 2:sixteen am #501327

Great post above Wrench Turner. I would pay detail attention to the battery cables and connections equally pointed out. One more affair you might want to check is the ELD or Electrical Load Detector which I believe is located in the under hood fuse box. Sometimes they go bad and crusade problems like to what you depict.

Feb 19, 2013 at 9:23 am #501466

What is the diagnosis for a bad eld?

March 5, 2013 at 1:27 am #504589

Forget the ELD for now. I just remembered that all that stuff runs through the dimmer switch. Effort 'jiggling' the switch to encounter if the problem happens. If it does so I'd recommend replacing the dimmer switch and rechecking for the trouble. I've run across this issue in the past and the dimmer switch was the cause. It's worth checking if nix else. Also, if you have an aftermarket stereo this is also suspect. It might exist ameliorate to say the wiring of it is suspect. If you don't claw things up correctly it tin can upshot the dimmer circuit for the vehicle.

November 20, 2013 at 8:05 pm #558147

Forgot to update this thread, sad. Dimmer switch was fine, concluded up replacing the ELD since it is only $23. Solved the problem 🙂 . I kept putting off this repair because I idea it was the alternator or something expensive. Thanks for the help!

November 20, 2013 at ix:21 pm #558161

Thanks for the update and the set. 🙂

November 20, 2013 at ix:39 pm #558166

Yes that ELD tin make for some weird electric issues.

December 12, 2013 at one:52 am #562163

Unfortunately I'm back. Afterward replacing the ELD my auto seemed fine for awhile. But things got a whole lot worse. Nigh iv hours into a ix hour trip, the lights started to surge really badly. The surging stopped when both of my headlights blew out at the aforementioned time. Luckily I was 3 miles from a Honda dealership. They replaced the bulbs and sent me on my way as I needed to reach my destination that nighttime. They didn't see annihilation manifestly wrong with the automobile and told me that a common light switch call back on my car had been taken intendance of already. On my way home the surging started again, only this time it caused my SRS light to illuminate (never have seen this earlier). Once I slowed down the SRS low-cal went out and the surging became less.

I am currently selling this car and would like to attempt and figure out what is incorrect before I sell information technology. I'm totally stuck. Battery has been checked, new ELD, alternator checked, dimmer switch checked…

Whatever ideas? Or should I requite in and have it to a professional?

December 12, 2013 at 2:05 am #562168

Has anyone checked battery voltage when the electrical surging is going on?

December 12, 2013 at 2:17 am #562179

I don't believe so. The surging occurs most notably while driving. Bombardment was checked at idle.

Dec 12, 2013 at 2:38 am #562192

If the headlights blew out, in that location is just ane possibility– the alternator sometimes go stuck on total on. There is no other way to blow out the headlights.

Your typical elementary test at Autozone will non observe this.

December 12, 2013 at 5:46 pm #562303

[quote="grg8888″ mail=81985]If the headlights blew out, at that place is merely one possibility– the alternator sometimes become stuck on full on. There is no other way to accident out the headlights.

Your typical simple test at Autozone will not notice this.[/quote]

That is what I am wondering, if his alt is full fielding while driving and sending too much voltage into the system.

December 13, 2013 at 4:51 am #562420

Like above, if the headlights were effected like that my starting point would be the alternator. There are several things to test with an alternator. The easiest is to exam the bombardment voltage while its running at idle, and then turn on some of the accessories and fan and test it.

You lot tin can test an alternators amperage output also just not all multi meters volition do information technology.

Some other proficient one is to turn on a agglomeration of the accessories and then test voltage driblet betwixt the alternator example and battery negative. Eric has some great videos on the charging system.

Another thing to consider in your diagnosis is the weather. Where I am is common cold, rainy, some snow and dark early. This time of year there is far greater load on your electrical system. A cold engine is harder to crank, constant headlight use, window defroster, wipers, fan etc. If annihilation in the charging organisation is getting tired it will start to autumn behind and fail every bit presently equally it gets cold. Inquire any mechanic where they go winter what the nigh common repair is from late fall until jump: Battery replacement, and Alternators.

December thirty, 2013 at 8:45 am #565980

Took it to dealer and battery failed this time. Said it is holding a accuse fine but the cold cranking amps are depression. Bombardment isn't new and so this doesn't surprise me. Information technology is really common cold here simply I oasis't had bug starting information technology, fifty-fifty below zip.

Could an old battery cause this many problems? Or is it nonetheless likely something else like the alternator?

If it could exist the batter I can try replacing that earlier I sell it. Alternator I'm not replacing though.

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Source: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/forums/topic/lights-flicker-surge/

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